Tongyeong or: How I Spent My Second Chuseok in Korea |Derek Teacher

On the 15th day of the 8th lunar month, Koreans take three days to celebrate the Autumn harvest. Chuseok, as it's properly called, is a time when family members return to their hometowns in order to pay tribute to their ancestors. From what I gathered last year, children return to their parents' houses, meaning there's no debate about who is hosting the feast every year. My coteacher told me that almost all Korean families will spend some time at the home of their grandparents on their mother's side, as well as some time with their grandparents from their father's side. If there are no surviving grandparents the responsibility lies with the eldest sibling. Last year, we were lucky enough, (and forever grateful), to have been invited to spend our first Chuseok with our friend Yuri and her family. If you're wondering how that went, I went through the hassle of copying and pasting the link right here: Chuseok in Gwangju

Chuseok landed on a Thursday this year, meaning we'd have the day before, (Wednesday), and the day after, (Friday), off as well so if you're keeping score at home and are capable of the most basic form of basic math, that means we'd have a five day weekend.

Last spring, a friend of ours spent a few days visiting a small port town called Tongyeong. She raved about it and we've been investigating it ever since. The five day weekend provided us an excellent excuse to purchase a bus ticket, (about 12,000-13,000 won), and endure the 90 minute ride, (buses leave from Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal, 서부정류장, every 40-60 minutes), to the southern coast.

I've recently been studying some Korean history and I've taken a liking to the (very) late, great Admiral Yi Sun Shin, (이순신). Heralded as one of the greatest naval strategists to ever sail, Admiral Yi is best remembered for his stunning defeats of the Japanese Navy during the Imjin War of the late-1500s.

Of his four campaigns during 1592, the third, and most important battle was fought in the waters south of Tongyeong, near Hansan Island. Previously, naval battles were fought in straight lines or in circular, rolling attacks. At Hansando, Admiral Yi first employed his new Crane Wing Formation, where he stacked his heavy battleships in the center with his lighter ships flanking their sides, essentially in a "U" shaped formation. Two Turtle ships, or Geobukseon (거북선), anchored the flanks on each side.

The Turtle ship's were light and fast allowing them to attack enemy ships up close and out of the range of heavy artillery. It was common for the Japanese navy to approach enemy ships in order to board them and attack with foot soldiers. Yi's ships were topped with iron spikes, so trying to jump aboard from a taller ship almost certainly meant impalement.

Each Turtle ship was equipped with eleven cannons on each side, including two in the stern and the bow, meaning that these ships could attack head on or while in retreat. There were numerous hatches and small holes along the sides from which arrows, guns and mortars were fired. The dragon figurehead at the front of each ship held up to four additional cannons and was used to confuse the enemy by emitting smokescreens.

Yi was wildly victorious at Hansando, destroying 66 of the 133 Japanese ships while retaining all 56 of his own and losing only 19 men in battle. While the victory at Hansando is most impressive it pales in comparison to the Battle of Myeongnyang. In October, 1597, Admiral Yi lured 333 Japanese ships into the Straight of Myeongnyang near Jindo Island on Korea's southwestern coast. By the battle's end, 31 Japanese ships were completely destroyed, 92 others had been rendered disabled, and approximately 8,000 Japanese soldiers had been lost. Two of Yi's men were killed. Three were wounded. And all 13 of his ships remained intact. You read that last part right. Thirteen of Yi's ships were responsible for the defeat of 333 Japanese vessels.

If this guy had played for the Cubs he'd almost certainly have a statue in front of Wrigley Field.

Coincidentally, I was just attacked by 6 third graders wielding plastic samurai swords. After a brief struggle, one Derek Teacher was able to successfully repel the little hooligans. I'll be erecting my own statue in the English classroom later this week.

Now that I've bored everyone with historical facts, here are some other highlights from the trip.

Dongpirang was a poor neighborhood and slated for redevelopment when a bunch of resident artists protested by painting murals all along the alleyways. The artwork saved the hillside community and is now one of the most visited attractions in the city though I have to imagine property value has since increased dramatically.

There are numerous islands to explore south of the mainland and the ferry terminal located near the harbor services many of said islands several times a day. Bijindo came highly recommended by a few of our friends and coworkers. During the off season, only three ferries sail for Bijindo daily: one at 7:05, one at 11:00, and one at 2:00. We wanted to make the most of our time so we were off with the sunrise.