Tokyo -- Grand Sumo Tournament

Our trip to Tokyo just happened to coincide with the Grand Sumo Tournament, so naturally, we scored two tickets and decided to check it out.  The tournament lasts for about 2 weeks, with matches taking place everyday from about 9 AM until around 6 PM.  Our hosts in Tokyo told us that we'd probably get bored after an hour or two, so they suggested that we head to the arena around 4 PM, because that's when the more exciting ceremonies and matches take place.  I wouldn't say we were bored at all, just pretty confused about all of the pre-bout formalities.  The wrestlers would meet in the center of the ring about 3 or 4 times before the actual match would happen.  Each time, the two combatants would go through a series of motions that seemed to be solely for the sake of intimidation.  However, thanks to this thing called the internet, I was able to figure out what all of the rituals mean.

Ritual 1: Each wrestler faces the audience, claps his hands, and performs a leg stomping shinto exercise to drive evil spirits away from the dohyo (ring).

Ritual 2: The wrestlers return to their respective corners to sip from a ladle of chikara-mitzu (power water) and wipe their bodies with chikara-gami (power paper).

Ritual 3: This is probably the most recognizable of all sumo practices.  Each wrestler squats, facing each other in the center of the ring.  They lift each one of their legs high off of the ground, traditionally, this is to show that they are carrying no weapons.

Ritual 4: Returning to their corners, they toss a handful of purifying salt into the ring.

Ritual 5: The opponents meet at their starting lines and attempt to stare each other down before returning to their corners for final mental preparation and more salt throwing.

Finally, it's time for the contest to begin.  The match is over when a wrestler drives his opponent from the ring, or forces his opponent to the floor.  I must admit, I found the matches to be pretty exciting and even though I wasn't sure what all of the preparation was about, it did make for some nice suspense.

view from our seats

the dohyo

pre-match ceremony

no weapons

sumoing

final bow ceremony

Tokyo -- Something Old and Something New

Having lived in New York City for 5 years, I initially expected Tokyo, a sprawling metropolis of 20 million people, (I'm not going to fact check that number but I'm pretty sure it's close), to be a loud, rude, fast paced, and filthy city. Strangely, it was none of these things.

Although Tokyo had me feeling as close to the western world as I've been since arriving in Asia, it still had a very eastern feel to it.  The streets were impeccably clean, with people going out of their way to make sure that trash was disposed of into the correct bins.  People calmly waited in lines to board buses and trains.  It was rare to see anyone rushing through the sidewalks or pushing past you on an escalator.  

But the most shocking thing of all, for me anyway, was the overwhelming sense of quietude.  Even the most bustling spots of the city were devoid of constant sirens, raving lunatics, blaring car horns, and most other noises that you would associate with a major city.  The sense of calm was startling and almost impossible to adjust to.

I should also mention that the people of Japan, not only in Tokyo but also everywhere else that we traveled, were incredibly polite, friendly, and eager to help us.  

Anyway, on to our trip.

We didn't have much time in Tokyo, and we didn't really have the monetary means by which to really enjoy the food and night life, so Caroline and I spent our time the way we like to spend our time in any new place, wandering around and taking in the sights and sounds.  Obviously, because of it's gargantuan size, Tokyo is the perfect city for aimless wander, and like New York, there's something exciting/freaky/hilarious/strange every 40 steps or so.

I've mentioned how warm and helpful the people of Japan were.  Nothing accentuates this more than our lovely hosts in Tokyo, Yoshiko and Kaji, whom we found thanks to www.airbnb.com.

I can't say enough good about these two.  I thought we were just renting their bedroom for a few nights but it turns out that we were actually staying with the two best tour guides in all of Japan.  Yoshiko and Kaji helped us plan our days in Tokyo. Kaji helped us find the best way to get as close as we could to Mt Fuji. Every morning, Yoshiko made us breakfast and packed us snacks.  At night, she would offer to make us food and then serve us tea.  She even, (against my will), did our laundry.  We were spoiled for the first leg of our trip and there were more than just a few times later on that one of us would wail "I miss Yoshiko!" 

And did I mention the view?

It looks minuscule in this picture, but you could clearly see Mt Fuji from one bedroom window and...

...Tokyo Skytree Tower from the other.

Like all of the other cities I've visited in Asia, (and by Asia, I really mean Korea), Tokyo is a mix of modern and old.  While the modern scenes are what we typically picture when we think of Tokyo, there are also remnants of a time long gone, and like all of the other cities I've visited in Asia, (and by Asia, I still really mean Korea), these places are hidden among a back drop of cafes, taverns, storefronts, and all of the other makings of a modern city.

The Moat

Guard House

Castle Walls

This is the Imperial Palace.  It's located smack in the center of Tokyo, and it dates back to the mid-1400s, when Tokyo was still called Edo.  The Palace is off limits without making a reservation far in advance, it's also a little pricey, but the grounds are free to walk in.  We didn't spend much time here because we were hungry, and I'm not ashamed to admit it.

Asakusa Shrine

Pagoda Dollhouse

Giant Lantern

Barrels O'Sake

I'm sure Tokyo has a plethora of night life options, but it seemed like the two areas that were being highly touted as the best were Shinjuku and Shibuya.  I happen to be a fan of the movie Lost in Translation, and it just so happens that most of the film was shot in these two neighborhoods.

The Park Hyatt Hotel

Relaxing Times

Shinjuku Night Lights

Dinosaur Building